SUMMARY We were docked overnight in the harbor of Stari Grad on Hvar island. Our last full day on the boat is another fun one of sailing, water activities and way more food and alcohol than we need! We have been very spoiled by Jure and Matko this week. We spend the night anchored in the bay offshore from Trogir and will be kicked off the boat kicking and screaming tomorrow morning. - Karen
DETAIL After our big night we wake up late. We have bright sunshine and blue sky, much to our delight. I feel better but am always cautious after an episode. Jure returns from a bit of shopping with some groceries and freshly baked bread. Karen and Nancy take a long walk and get some exercise. For all the plusses of boat life, walking a lot is not one of them.
Today’s our last full day, boo and boo hoo! The talk over breakfast is of next stops. Noël and Ted head to Salzburg via Munich (during the height of Octoberfest!) The remaining six of us are driving to Istria for some truffle hunting for a few days and then to Slovenia, Lake Bled/Ljubljana, and then fly to Paris. Weather looks cool in both places.
At around 10 am we’re wheels up (or whatever is the boating equivalent thereof). It’s a delightful 74° and mostly sunny. We have a lovely motor from Stari Grad to a little cove (Nečujam on Solta island). It’s across from Trogir. Did I mention how pretty it is here? We swim and paddle board. Our view includes Split, off in the distance, and the imposing mountains behind it, to the south.
Lunch is smoked clams and different types of sardines, olives and caper berries. Main course is Scampi Risotto. Yum, as always. For dessert we’re offered Afogato (coffee with ice cream) or just coffee or just ice cream. Decisions, decisions.
After that, what else can you do? Early afternoon siesta. By the time we come to, there are thin clouds. No more bright sun or blue sky. It’s a reminder that summer’s winding down and the big tourist season here is about to end.
We motor over to Rogač, still on Solta island. We’re here for diesel, to fill the boat. Across the cove there are a half dozen sail boats going back and fourth. It seems to be a regatta, but each boat is only 4’ tall. They’re radio controlled and so no one aboard. The diesel fuel is 1.55€ per liter. Jure’s twin brother didn’t fill the boat after the last week full of passengers, so the 1,000€ of fuel cost doesn’t seem so bad. We’re the only boat at the station. Season’s really is almost over.
On our minds, all day, is that today is our last day on the boat. What a treat. We’re off the boat tomorrow at 9:00 am. Our lifestyle goes back to normal (eventually). We’re soaking in, as much as we can, all of the amazing experiences of Croatia: the gorgeous views, the cool temperature and light winds, the clear seas and the wide open waterways. And tonight we get our last big meal, dinner, aboard. We’ll be just offshore from Trogir, where we’ll say our goodbyes.
We have one last final run with two sails up. It’s a fast and quiet reminder of how fun it is, sailing here. Well, maybe not completely quiet, but it’s a different sound than the diesel motor. Lots of cool breeze.
Parked just offshore from Trogir, Matko points out the dry dock where the boat spent a good bit of time, last year. “For a mani-pedi?” we ask. Yes, and prostate, everything. (We all laugh). “Turn your rudder and cough” comes to mind.
Over pre-dinner cocktails Jure lets us know he has a gift for each of us: our very own crew shirt from the Cool Change boat. We pick our size and color and put them on. They’ll be fond reminders.
Dinner is especially delicious. Steak. Filet Mignon prepared to order. Lots of wine and final conversations with Jure and Matko. Everyone is trying to get them to visit us in the US. Who knows?
Photos
A big, yummy breakfast, as always. Morning time is when everyone's on their devices, checking email and reading the news.
Today's email included this cute picture of great nephew Liam Jeffrey Lillich, born while we were on our big fall 2023 Europe trip.
We also check out where we're going. This view shows where we started (Marina), a number of the places we've been (Vis, Hvar, and Stari Grad) and where we're going (Trogir). There are lots of unnamed coves in there too, where we honed our bobbing skills.
Under sail for one of the last times this trip. Whaaaa.
Getting diesel and watching the mini regatta of radio-controlled yachts across the inlet.
Enjoying one last gin and tonic (maybe two).
The dry dock (the big yellowish building) where the Cool Change got its makeover last year. "Turn your rudder and cough"
After our delicious steak dinner. Many of us still in our official Cool Change shirts.
Hearing more tales from Captain Jure
The lights and sky give us one last show.
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