Karen relaxing under the cute tile roofed out building in the garden.

A day relaxing in Italian paradise

📍 Barolo, Italy

Summary

We felt the need for a lazy day – a little ‘dolce far niente’. Having thoroughly enjoyed our home-cooked meal last night, we decided to make both lunch and dinner at our hotel.  Drove to the weekly outdoor market in nearby Alba in search of ingredients but eventually got impatient with the inefficiency of the vendors and ended up at a local grocery store. Back at our lodging we made lunch and hung out all afternoon in the shade to blog and catch up on emails.

Details

We have many types of days between relocating or planned activities, moving in or moving out, long drives. Today we have none of those. We don’t really have any big plans either so maybe it’ll just turn out to be a quiet, relaxing day, which would be fine. 

Of course we have to do the usual, getting up, bathing, and dressing. It’s not hard when you know what a delicious breakfast awaits. As good as it is, we have some leftover fruits that we’re adding to the mix. We also have some chopped up sautéed mushrooms and turkey breast. Karen asks that they be added to a made-to-order omelette with cheese and ooh-wee-baby it’s good. 

Raffaella or Stelle (or the other lady, we never got her name) are always coming around asking if we want yogurt or more coffee or some magic fruit juice that they make themselves. Today’s fruit juice? Strawberry. Oh my, so delicious. I look at the breakfast in front of me and I think of the adage “eat your colors”. We’re doing well by that measure. We’re offered water, too, but Karen will typically get up and go outside, across the driveway to the always-on flow of well water and fill our glasses. It has some tasty minerals. 

After breakfast we do head out in our car. We’re driving up to Alba to the outdoor market. It’s covered, which is nice, but it’s still open air. We can warm in the sun for a bit and then duck inside and cool off in the shade. They have everything you would expect: cooked meats (including rotisserie chicken), raw meats, cheeses, clothings, housewares, hardware, and of course lots of fruits and vegetables. That’s where we focus our attention. 

We’re always intrigued by the tribal nature of vegetable shopping. You’ll have three or four or more booths selling produce. It all looks colorful, fresh and good. And yet one place will have a long line of people waiting to put in their order and the others will have a client or two. Is it habit? Price? Knowledge about the best sources? 

We buy a few things at one of the lesser in demand stalls. What we buy looks perfectly delicious. Later we make a list of everything else we want. We go to the one big “in demand” stand. They have a “take a number” machine, and we do. We’re number 90 and they’re servicing the person holding the slip of paper with 72 on it. Yikes. The good news is that they have four people on the other side of the produce. The bad news is that two are on break, one’s restocking, and one is waiting on customers. Hm. 

After twenty minutes of waiting they’re up to number 80 and we’re still holding 90. We’re out of here. Our GPS says there is a Carrefour grocery store not too far away. It’s a French grocery store chain and we have a prejudice for such things. Alas it seems not to have done well here as it’s dark and shuttered, and the parking gate is fenced off and padlocked. Maybe there’s some bad blood between the two countries. Or maybe it’s the other three supermarkets a stone’s throw away. 

We head into one of the other stores and grab a trolly basket. The fruit and produce here looks pretty much as beautiful as that at the market, but with no waiting. We’ve been bitten before so as we grab stuff we look around for how the weighing goes. On each bin of product there’s a number from 01 to 99. Take your bag of [whatever] to the scale. Press the corresponding number on the scale’s big matrix of numbers. And out pops an adhesive printed label with the price. Easy-peasy. This seems much more logical than in the US where we’re forced to remember that zucchini is 4067.  

They also have rotisserie chicken which we’re very much in the market for. It’ll last us for both dinner tonight and lunch tomorrow. It’s going straight into the fridge so I look up and ask (in Italian) if she has it cold. She gives me a funny look and assures me they don’t. We don’t buy wine but do look. We see a couple of Italian brands from our past: Lancers and Mateus rosé (shudder).

Back “home” we have the kitchen all to ourselves. We make two big salads with a big variety of ingredients and, for tomorrow’s lunch, we make a big tuna salad, again with lots of finely chopped vegetables. We have a gorgeous head of butter lettuce and each leaf will serve nicely as a conduit to get the tuna into our mouths. We eat our “today lunch” al fresco where the sun and temperature continue to be idyllic. 

After lunch, pretty much for the rest of the day, we spend our time outside, alternating between sling back chairs on the lawn and normal chairs under a cute patio cover of tile. 

At dinner time we chat with fellow Americans Peter and Laura, also on a very extended holiday over here. He’s a big wine aficionado (now that he’s retired from the rigors of orthopedic surgery in San Diego). He speaks highly of Raffaella’s wine so I order a glass of the 2021. Indeed delicious. 

We’re again the only ones doing anything in the kitchen so throwing together dinner is quick and fun. We again eat outdoors, the way we’re sure our ancestors (the cave men) used to do. 

Post dinner we clean and head back to our room for one last night. We’ll definitely miss this place. 

Photos

Eat your colors, they say. We feel we’re doing our part. Lots of yummy variety including the fruits, breads, cakes, juices, etc. We look forward to this meal each day.
For some reason we have our breakfast indoor but Peter and Laura, from San Diego, prefer eating Al Fresco. Karen compares daily activity plans with Peter before heading up to our room.
We’re at the outdoor market for fruits and vegetables, but can’t resist looking at everything else. Almost all of the Italian outlets we find are the true Italian type (versus the newer, round European style we’re ready for) so I’m always on the lookout for another adapter. Two euros? I have two euros. Alas the plug adapters on offer are to make one Italian style into multiple Italian styles. Keep looking.
Karen’s tickled by the care with which this vendor arranged the outfits. Each color range together. You’re looking for a blue outfit? Over here. Or a brown outfit, better over there.
Usually when we see fruits or vegetables of ‘abnormal size’ (like huge carrots) we steer clear, but these peppers, despite being enormous, call to us. We buy and are not disappointed.
I can not get over how good everything looks (and tastes). I like the juxtaposition of the red tomatoes and strawberries to the yellow/green bananas and pears to the blueberries to the cherries. Sign me up!
We do more shopping at a grocery store, which is its own kind of fun. We do look at the wine, for jollies, and see some old friends from our youth. We’re more refined now, or so we think, and so we leave these price performers on the shelf for some other shoppers.
Raffaella again kindly gives us free range of the kitchen. We sauté some of our onions, peppers and mushrooms for our omelette tomorrow and dice up the rest for our tuna salad (for tomorrow lunch) and our salad salad (for lunch right now).
We waste, er, invest our time the rest of the day relaxing outside in the perfect weather. We split our time between the cute tile-covered patio/bar-b-que grilling building and the sling back chairs out on the lawn. We agree it’s time well spent.
Normally we wave off the maid from freshening our room but today we missed doing that. As such, upon our return the beds have been made, the floors swept and the towels straightened. Most of the time we have our bedroom window and our bathroom window open to get some lovely cross ventilation. Truck noise, yes, there’s a bit of that. This is a busy winemaking region.
While relaxing we occasionally look around at all of the flowers in bloom, or on the cusp of blooming.
Emerging from our stairwell we get a view of more flowers, including the grey/green curry plant with its wonderful smelling flowers. There’s lots of rosemary and basil, both of which we snitched and cooked with.
There are two ‘fountains’ made from old wine barrels. The water is from a deep well and tastes delicious. This is what we mostly drink (when not drinking wine or fruit juice). The falling water makes for nice background noise.
I did take a short walk down the lane in the direction of the village of Barolo. This interesting place is on the hill above where we’re staying. It’s like two boxes (wine crates?) made of wood (not) with dovetail corners (not). They appear to have been casually stacked one upon another by a giant (not).
Across the street is one of many, many speed trap cameras. They include the catchy phrase “CONTROLLO ELETTRONICO DELLA VELOCITA” which tells you they’re monitoring your car’s speed as you drive by and you may get a letter in the mail in the coming weeks saying you’re legally required to pay a speeding fine. Or… it may just be a blue metal box with cutouts that looks like this could happen. Care to risk it?
Back closer to home I see the sign for our Agroturismo, “Il Gioco dell’Oca” (the game of the goose). AI tells us: “In Italy, the Game of the Goose (known as Il Gioco dell’Oca) is an ancient board game of pure chance, but it also carries deeper cultural meanings tied to fate, luck, and life’s unpredictable journey”. Perhaps it couldn’t be more appropriate that our journeys have brought us here!
Oh my goodness, please give us the names of the chefs that have prepared this fabulous meal! (Oh yeah, it’s us). Deliciousness both on the plate and in the wine glasses.