Summary
Awoke and rejoiced because the sun was out in full force! We drove to a restaurant on the water for a slooooooow breakfast (they were severely understaffed). Our planned scenic boat ride on the Malbaie River had been cancelled so we took a beautiful drive to the Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie and hiked part of the the RiveraIn trail. Followed the Route des Montagnes to the Jardins du Cap-à-l’Aigle for another short hike through their gardens and to a pretty little waterfall. Had a little downtime then cocktails on the terrace before driving into town for dinner.
Details
After a couple of days of rain we’re happy to be back to sunshine. The weather apps predicted sunshine this morning and we were happy to see it when we wake up. We’ve had a string of hotels where breakfast is included. This is not one of those so research is done and we head out to our car to drive to breakfast.
Where we’re staying valet parking is CA$39 which is only US$28 (plus tip?) but still be opt for the free parking. It’s just up the stairs. 121 of them. We bitch every time we haul our creaky old bones up or down them but then we feel virtuous. We can see the Saint Lawrence River in the distance so we know we’re close to sea level. We can’t (now) blame elevation for the huffing and puffing we’re doing. We’ve come by that honestly.
Our chosen breakfast spot is on the water and we enjoy the view before going in. Eventually the only apparent waiter in the joint is done taking a big table’s order and acknowledges us and lets us sit anywhere. Over the course of breakfast we gather that he is, in deed, alone on the floor and also there’s fewer chefs back in the kitchen than normal. One of these days (maybe today) is a holiday. Civic Day (be proud of yours city/village/town maybe).
The place is cute with a nautical theme and little saying written in chalk, in French, all around. The one directly above us says “Je m’accorde une tasse de poisinithé”. We can’t puzzle out that last word. Nor can ChatGPT. Nor can our waiter, and he’s French Canadian. He says these were written by his cousin. Breakfast, when it does arrive, is very carefully assembled and looks good and is just OK.
Eventually we are able to pay our bill. The whole experience took forever, though our waiter (the only waiter) was very nice. Apparently there’s an opportunity to take just a couple of days of vacation and combine them with some close holidays and you get nine days off. So everyone’s here clogging up all the fun tourist places and lots of workers have called in sick. Argh.
We drive on and head up into the hills, a long drive, eventually getting to Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie National Park. Here too there are lots of cars and few parking places. Same reason. We’d booked a river cruise up here which the park cancelled theoretically due to the weather but that whole section of the park seems closed, maybe again not enough employees showing up.
We do pay our park entrance fee, for the four of us, online and then head out on a pleasant hike. It’s pretty, with lots of trees, mosses, mushrooms, bushes, berries, etc. On the way back we’re stopped by a park personnel. We’re being what’s called “controlled”. They would like to see that we did in fact pay to be here. Thank goodness we did and could prove it.
Driving back towards our hotel we eventually get cell service and start searching for restaurants for lunch. The verdict? Lots of restaurants. Are they open? Mostly no. We do drive past a little sandwich shop, well bread shop. It says it’s open so we pop in. It’s open all right and they have merchandise but it’s all honor system. Put your money into the metal box and take the bread you want. No body home.
Eventually we get to a grocery story (IGA) and get sandwiches, chips, poke bowls, fruit, etc. and we eat them at the table inside the store. Actually pretty fun.
Closer to our hotel we visit a free outdoor museum of fantastic creatures that some local artist had stitched together with scrap iron, a welding set, and paint. There were also bells, flowers, a waterfall, and other fun things. It is free, so the price is right, and while we are there we see many other visitors.
We have a short bit of downtime in our rooms before heading for cocktails downstairs and dinner at a nearby restaurant. As always everyone was very kind and the food was good and a price performer. We’re getting spoiled.
Photos
