Sitting on the train headed for Montreal

Headed south (upriver) to Montreal

📍 Montreal, Quebec

Summary

We caught an early train to Montreal. So civilized with a business class lounge for check-in and waiting plus breakfast served at our seats. We dropped our bags at our hotel and headed out to a restaurant that specializes in poutine (30 variations). We took an Uber to the top of Mount Royal for the view then spent the rest of the afternoon noon wandering around the Old Port and the picturesque area around the Place Saint-Jacques. After cocktails we saw an amazing Sound and Light show called Aura at Norte-Dame basilica. Dinner was fondue and crepes.

Details

Today we leave Quebec but we don’t leave Quebec, it’s all pretty confusing. We’re leaving Quebec City, Quebec and taking a train south, parallel to the Saint Lawrence River, to Montreal, Quebec. It’ll still be Quebec. It’ll still be French. It’ll still be fun. 

We’re up and out before the breakfast opens at the hotel. We do get two cookies as a thank you from the hotel for our four nights there. The first night we were there they sent us an email saying the A/C’s not working properly. The last day we’re there they say they’re still working on it. Sigh. I’m toying with the idea of asking for some sort of a discount on a future stay. 

The train station is only a fifteen minute walk from here but we have a lot of luggage so we hire an Uber. The station is quiet and clean and (in the tradition of good European train stations) looks a bit palatial. We wait our turn to check in as they check the papers and luggage weight and dimensions of the couple ahead of us. When we step up we’re told “Oh, you’re in Business Plus!… your lounge and check in are over there!” 

And quite the lounge it is, with cushy chairs and a fancy coffee machine. I offer my passport and luggage for inspection and the reaction seems to be “Oh, no, this is the Business Plus lounge, we trust you… no need for those things.” We get to board the train early, so it’s not chaos. On board it is very comfortable with tables that get bigger and smaller, power, WiFi, big bathrooms, very nice. It makes me want to see where else in Canada one can ride a train!

Beverage service comes through a couple of times and we have coffee in ceramic mugs. Breakfast is included in our fare and it’s generous, tasty and healthy. The ride is smooth and the views are very pastoral (likely for 2nd class travelers, too). We stop a few times before we get Montreal where we roll off. Out of the station we catch an Uber to our hotel. I wish I kept a list of all our Uber driver names. They’re all Mustafa something or Muhamed something or some strange East African first name with which I’m not familiar. They’re all nice and happy to chat. It’s funny being an American speaking French to someone from Eastern Europe, such a world. 

Our rooms aren’t ready yet but they store our bags, give us our keys and room assignments and we’re good to come back after three. Down the street we duck into La Banquaise for lunch. The place, it turns out, is an institution and they have lots of stuff, but their main claim to fame is Poutine. They boast more than thirty different kinds, some of which sound intriguing, others not so much. We’re seated outdoors in a central patio (“there’s no alcohol service allowed out here, is that OK?”). We’re under a red lexan plastic cover which colors everything from the menus to the food. We guys get the plates of poutine (medium, as the large size is obscene). 

Done, we head back out, past the long line of people waiting to get in. A big comfortable Uber picks us up to go to the top of the Royal Mountain, after which Montreal gets its name. We screw up on where we want to go and have to fix it on the fly. Where we end up we find you really only want to be for a few minutes (snapping a quick picture) before moving on). We add a third destination to our Uber ride and eventually are back on the flats, down near the Saint Lawrence River. We thank our driver and let him have his car back. 

The dockside was very industrial for years but now it’s nice and touristy. Big informational panels show what things were like back in the day, or after a big flood, etc. and admonishes us to “keep an eye out for…” to see signs of days gone by. The end of our walk, unintentionally, is a big ferris wheel and big Cirque du Soleil tents. There’s a midway, bouncy houses, vendors, and a high ropes course where people are weaving their way along way overhead. 

A few streets over we continue our walk and eventually get to Place Saint Jacques. So many tourists and business designed for them. Drinks and then off to the Norte Dame of Montreal. We have tickets for a light and music show. The cathedral hold a mass of people (you see what I did there?) and it’s quite full. We arrive a few minutes before the show and the place is dark. It’s hard to find your way to an open pew. 

Once seated our eyes start to adjust and eventually the show begins. It’s very impressive and inspiring. Do I want to convert to Catholicism? Their light shows are pretty good. They use spot lights, and back lights behind JC and other prominent church figures. They use projectors to make it look like the ceiling is glass and there’s blowing leaves overhead or a violent rain storm or a flood. There are lasers and and and. Upon exiting we all agree it was a most enjoyable show. A Disney E ticket ride and we’d do it again. 

For dinner we pick a place called Crepe Suzettes at random and are lead up to the second floor. It’s a huge room with lots of tables but only one occupied. It’s a three generational family with the grandparents and a couple of two year olds. Granddad is chasing them around and everyone’s screaming. It’s dreadful. Thankfully they eventually leave and the food is quite good. We over order and then have dessert to top things off. We promise to do better tomorrow.

Photos

Up early, even before the hotel starts breakfast service, to get to the train station. On the street, it being summer, is construction season. There’s a sign but this being Canada, and they being so friendly, even the sign says “Hi”.
Of course they also protest here, in their own way. Across the way from our hotel is an apartment with someone apparently protesting the construction noise. Their method? A sign the says something like “Damn noise!” [exclamation point mine].
We paid a little extra to ride in something other than 2nd class. As such we (and the few others also in Business Plus) get to board early. It’s quiet and calm. Lovely. Very clean train station, very comfortable train.
We cross a number of rivers along the way. The reflected blue sky and surrounding green makes for a pretty picture.
The WiFi on the train is nice but not fully reliable. We do get to monitor our progress south. Further south we can see the good ol’ U. S. of A. and Burlington, Vermont, our stop after Montréal.
Something we see a lot of on our ride is agriculture. Lots of it and it all looks healthy and happy. Blue sky, sunshine and undoubtedly regular rains.
As a part of our class of rail service we get beverages (coffee) and breakfast.
Breakfast is welcome and good and healthy. Fruit, cheese, an egg, a cinnamon roll, and a bowl of chia seed pudding with nuts and coconut. Yum.
Eventually we can see Montréal in the distance.
Rolling into the city we can see buildings with interesting architecture and the occasional art. This art is interactive, it’s a bunch of stairways to nowhere. There’s another one across the street. No, I don’t think they’re planning to connect them. There’s minimal traffic so no one will be taking the long route, even if it did exist. Your (Canadian) tax dollars at work.
At our hotel, as we’re checking in, we’re intrigued by the keyboard. Apparently at one point one of the workers there had long fingernails and this is what was required to allow the nails, and the work assignment, to work together. Interesting.
For lunch we stumble upon a famous Montreal institution, La Banquaise, a funky restaurant that serves over 30 kinds of poutine. It’s crowded (as always) and we’re seated outside, in the interior courtyard. Beer? Sure, no problem, if you’re seated indoors. The red roof makes everything appear red. The partial solar eclipse during lunch makes everything that much more dim.
An Uber ride gets us up to the top of Royal Mountain (the reason for the city name) where we hang out for half a mo’ for a few pictures.
Next and final stop on our Uber ride is the walking promenade along the Saint Lawrence. City is in the background.
The waterfront today is quite different from how it looks and operated in prior decades and centuries. Big panels shows what it looked like back then, including during that big flood they apparently had.
At one point on our walk we come across a big amusement area, including Ferris wheel, boats, and Cirque du Soleil tents.
There’s an arial ropes course overhead for part of our walk. Fun seeing the adults and kids wobbling from one step to the next.
At the square Saint-Jacques there are lots of bars and restaurants and this guy who will do a caricature of you or whomever. He apologized for this one. We did, too.
At the Notre Dame Cathedral we enjoy a fantastic light show. No videoing or photography.
Dinner at a crepe and fondue restaurant. Pretty good.