Summary
Leaving Vézelay, we decided to take the (way) backroads to Sancerre, home of Karen’s favorite wine and our lodgings for the next three nights. We drove through very fertile rolling fields interspersed with dense forests as well as visually stunning fields of magenta (crimson clover) and pale blue (flax). The fields gave way to the vineyards of the Pouilly appellation (Pouilly-Fumé) and the Loire River where we picnicked. Next were the vines of the Sancerre wine region and the hilltop village of Sancerre. Our hotel was the aptly named Le Panoramic, situated just below the ramparts with beautiful views of the area. Spent several hours in their tasting room drinking delicious wine, snacking and watching a storm that blew in.
Details
We wake up this morning and say “Rabbit, Rabbit” first thing, as is our custom. For good luck. I guess we should also wish each other “Happy May Day” or something like that, as today’s a big day here. It’s like Labor Day, but I think they’re more serious about it here than in the US. Unions make a big deal about it because they’re a big part of “labor” over here. Kids love it because they can go into the forest, grab a handful of muguet flowers (lilies of the valley), and sell them on the street. Lots of kids are doing that here.
We have our breakfast and squirrel some of our breakfast bread, cheese, and ham away to have for lunch. It’s cool outside but delightfully sunny, just the kind of weather everyone wants for a big holiday such as today. Many people are off work and they want to relax, have a beer (or five) and lay in the sun. Our plan is to walk around the city, that is, to do the full Rampart walk.
We start out well, following the sign that points us to the Rampart Walk. There’s a big wall to our left and a cliff and pretty views off into the distance on our right. The city is mostly well above us, beyond our reach, which is how you want it if you’re worried about marauding invaders. These days there are gardens with vegetables growing.
It’s a fun walk and we’re getting exercise, but it’s not terribly well marked. Before long we’re up on top of the city, next to the basilica. That wasn’t supposed to happen. Oh, well, walk over. We’ll hike back down, on the village’s main street, and head out of town. At the petite “grocery store” we buy some additional things for our picnic lunch… cherry tomatoes, strawberries, and an apple.
At the hotel we check out and pay our bill. We load the car, wave goodbye, and drive on towards Sancerre. We have a few different route options and we select the least logical one, the one that will take the longest. Those are typically less traffic-y and more interesting. We’re hoping that since it’s a holiday traffic will be even less busy than normal and we’re not disappointed.
Along the way we see huge fields of red flowers (crimson clover) and huge fields of blue flowers (flax). We briefly see a huge animal dart across the road, way ahead of us. No idea what it was, but maybe a javelina (wild boar)?
As we get closer to Sancerre we cross the Loire river. The map says Burgundy is to the east and the Loire Valley region is to the west. What we really want is a place to eat our picnic. We stop at some church relics. There’s a food van/trailer there, hawking bread. There are a couple of sales people in the van and some customers just standing around shooting the shit. We walk over to check out the church ruins. They engage Karen and she finds out that one of the people there is the city mayor, I guess a big wig. It being a holiday he’s in shorts and a ratty tee shirt, wheeling around on an electric scooter. Not very mayor-ly of him, but he was friendly.
A ways on we find some benches looking out at (what’s labeled on the map as) the Loire River. Here the river shore close to us is just a long, weedy, sandy dry bar. We see people hiking along it. We guess that there are times when the river is more full and times when it’s less full. Right now it must be less full. Lunch is good and we enjoy the cool breezes and perfect temperatures. Behind us is one of the few places open today. It’s serving food, beer, and wine. Lots of people are partaking and it’s making them friendly and loud.
Eventually we do get to Sancerre and to our well named Hôtel Le Panoramic. It’s at the edge of the small town and overlooks Sancerre grape vineyards in all directions, as far as the eye can see. We get that view from the breakfast dining room, the wine bar, and from our room. We’re here three days… this will do.
We unpack and hang in our room. I’m excited to figure out that our window slides open to let a ton of air in. And a fly. Oh crap. I slap at it with a towel, always just missing. Eventually I open the window for a picture and the fly is gone. Whew.
At dinner time, it being a holiday we head to the wine bar. We gather there are few other options today. The place is a bit busy but there’s room for us. The waiter asks us if we want to sit inside or out (with the awesome view). Outside. Ah, hm, there’s no room. OK, we’ll sit inside.
Soon tables open up outside, we ask if we can move outside and do. Within seconds we figure out why there’s suddenly room. It’s too cold and windy. The clouds are starting to spit rain. We head back inside, promising our waiter it’s our last move. By now half the tables in the place are full and it’s filling up fast. The other people all come in from outside to stay dry and warm. One group that comes in is a big boisterous group that’s apparently been there a while, drinking. When two more people (and a dog) arrive everyone must greet (and kiss) everyone else. The machinations required to allow that to happen in such a small space are a mess. One of the group smiles at us and apologizes (in French) for all the commotion. As expected we tell them it’s no problem.
Karen has a glass of white Sancerre (to start), I have a glass of red Sancerre (Pinot Noir). Both are really delicious and only eight to 10 euros each. This is a scandalous price for a glass of wine in these parts. White Sancerre (aka Sancerre) is Karen’s favorite. When she can find it in the states (not often) there’s just one. Here there are eight. Karen’s in heaven. She consults AI for what are the best years.
We order a number of small, snacky things for dinner… salmon rillettes (shredded), green olive spread, ratatouille (included), bread, lentils with curry, crottin de chavignol (goat cheese). All but the bread and cheese come in clear glass crocks with clear glass lids. We’re seeing this more and more. Apparently food purveyors can make this easily, refrigerate it, distribute it to wine bars and restaurants, and then those establishments can then reheat (as appropriate) and thereby easily have high quality, long lasting, tasty offerings. We’re sure the containers go back to the purveyors for reuse. Brilliant. Everything was top notch. We have to have another glass of wine to finish everything off, including us.
Photos
[Note: Alrightee, then, TODAY it’s in chronological order, with the oldest at the top. Maybe I now know how to always do it this way. 🙂 ]
After breakfast we take the Rampart Walk in the opposite direction as last night, and in the daylight. We can tell we’re “outside the city walls”, beyond the ramparts. We do see where people are using the space for growing vegetables, which we’re all for.
Soon the sunshine and blue sky turned to torrential downpours. We were happy to be inside.